Chain link fencing is one of the most straightforward fence types to install, but the process still involves several steps that homeowners should understand before the work begins. Knowing what happens on installation day — and what needs to happen before it — helps set realistic expectations for timeline and yard disruption.

What happens before installation day?

The work starts well before any posts go into the ground. A clear understanding of the property lines is the first step, because a fence built even a few inches over the line can create disputes with neighbors. Most municipalities in Clark County require the fence to sit entirely on the owner’s property.

Utility locating is next. Underground gas, water, electric, and cable lines run through most residential yards, and hitting one during post hole digging can be dangerous and expensive. In Washington State, homeowners can call 811 to have utility companies mark buried lines at no charge. This process usually takes a few business days.

The installer will also walk the fence line to identify obstacles — tree roots, rocky soil, slopes, and drainage features. Vancouver, WA properties near the Columbia River or in older neighborhoods sometimes have unexpected drainage infrastructure or fill soil that changes how deep posts need to be set.

How are the posts set?

Post setting is the most important part of a chain link installation because the posts carry all of the tension in the fence fabric. Terminal posts — at corners, ends, and gate openings — are larger in diameter than line posts, because they bear the pull of the stretched mesh.

Each post hole is typically dug to a depth of about one-third the total post length, though soil conditions can change that. The posts are set in concrete, and the concrete needs time to cure before the mesh is stretched. Rushing this step is one of the most common mistakes, because stretching fabric against posts that have not set can pull them out of alignment.

On flat ground, posts are spaced evenly, usually six to ten feet apart depending on the height and gauge of the mesh. On sloped ground, the installer has to decide whether to step the fence in level sections or rack it to follow the slope continuously. Homeowners in Vancouver, WA who want to understand their options for chain link fence installation in Vancouver, WA can discuss these layout decisions with a local installer before the project begins.

Once the posts are set and the concrete has cured, the horizontal rails go up. A top rail runs the entire length, connecting each post and giving the mesh something to tie to. Some installations also include a bottom rail or tension wire along the base to keep the mesh from being pushed inward at ground level.

The chain link fabric comes in large rolls. The installer unrolls the mesh along the fence line, attaches one end to a terminal post using a tension bar and bands, then stretches the fabric tight with a fence puller. Proper tension is critical — too loose and the fence sags and rattles, too tight and the mesh distorts or stresses the posts.

After stretching, the mesh is secured to the top rail with aluminum ties spaced every twelve to eighteen inches. The bottom of the mesh is either left slightly above the ground to prevent rust from soil contact, or secured to a bottom tension wire depending on the property’s needs.

A typical residential chain link fence — enclosing a standard backyard with one or two gates — usually takes one to three days from post setting to finished fence. The variable is whether the concrete needs an overnight cure before the mesh can be stretched.

Larger properties, difficult terrain, or rocky soil can extend the timeline. Properties in parts of Vancouver, WA where the soil transitions from valley silt to river gravel may require more time for post hole digging. Gate installation adds time because gate posts need to be precisely plumbed and the hardware carefully aligned.

Weather can also affect scheduling. Heavy rain makes post hole digging messy and can slow concrete curing. Most fence builders in the Portland metro area schedule around the worst of the rainy season when possible. Terek Fencing and other local contractors can provide realistic timeline estimates based on property conditions.

What should the finished fence look like?

A properly installed chain link fence should have posts that are plumb — perfectly vertical when checked with a level. The top rail should follow a smooth, consistent line without dips or humps between posts. The mesh should be uniformly taut with no sagging, and the diamond pattern should be consistent throughout.

Terminal posts should have caps covering the open top to keep water out. Line posts typically have loop caps that hold the top rail while allowing it to expand and contract with temperature changes. All hardware — tension bands, brace bands, and rail ends — should be snug and properly oriented.

At gates, the hinges should allow smooth operation without dragging on the ground, and the latch should engage without forcing. A gate that binds or scrapes right after installation is a sign that the gate posts are not properly aligned.

Frequently Asked Questions

Permit requirements depend on the fence height and location on the property. Residential fences under a certain height in the backyard often do not require a permit, but fences in the front yard or taller fences may. Checking with the local building department before starting is the safest approach.

The fence is functional as soon as the mesh is stretched and the gates are hung. The concrete around the posts is the limiting factor — it reaches working strength within a day or two but continues to harden over the following week. Avoiding heavy impact on the posts during the first few days is a good precaution.

Yes. Chain link is one of the most adaptable fence types for slopes because the mesh can be racked — angled within its diamond pattern — to follow a grade without cutting the fabric. Steeper slopes may require stepping, where each section is level and drops down at each post.

Residential chain link typically uses eleven or eleven-and-a-half gauge wire. A lower gauge number means thicker wire. Nine gauge is the heaviest commonly available and is more typical of commercial applications. For a standard backyard boundary, eleven gauge provides a good balance of strength and cost.